Fender Tips

I don't know why fender manufacturers can't make the little tabs big enough for standard recessed nuts to fit through. I've have decent luck filing the tabs in the past, but they are easily bent and it's generally a pain in the ass. This is only an issue on the front fender since the rear fender's tab can be mounted anywhere and therefore should go on the rear side of the brake bridge, with the calipers mounting *bolt* (not nut) securing it vertically. Mounting it this way in the front however, comprises the amount of lower coverage the fender offers and allows more grime and gunk to get in your chain.

But, I've had some good luck recently:

If you get the full-on proper SKS fenders and add the Planet Bike Cascadia mud flaps, you can mount the font fender on the front side of the fork and still provides more coverage than even Cascadia Fenders.

The main advantage of this is that you don't need any Sheldon's Nuts/Problem Solvers/tapped brake caliper bolts -- in general, I've found all of those solutions unsatisfactory.

Comparative photos of "properly" mounted PB Cascadias and my SKS+Cascadia mud flap set up to come.

[Thread brought to you by: me having an awesome bike that I want to ride more than 4 months/year]

theothergraham's picture

dunno

I wisely (read: inadvertently) avoided these problems by buying a frame/fork with cantis, so the only thing bolted to my brake bridges are the fenders.

.

Right, that's my commuter bike. But some folks out there have for-fun-only road bikes with expensive chains and cassettes that they don't want to prematurely wear out.

IF you're going to put fenders on a road frame that doesn't have ridiculously tight clearance, I've found my post above to yield the most satisfactory results. I was at work way too late last night, so those photos will have to wait.

Fenders aside, I prefer caliber brakes to cantis and really wouldn't want to take a steep and curvy descent with them. But that's just me.

Alex's picture

Dang

With those brakes, I bet your rims are shot.

I used to have a pair of weld [welt] chromed(-ish) steel ones on my tourer. They were heavy, but I liked the contrast between the old and the new.

?

Is this a joke on my caliber/caliper typo? Or are you talking about riding in the wet grime so much that rim brakes will wear out the rim?

If the latter, I've toyed with the idea of building up a set up wheels with roller or drum brakes and a dynamo hub (at least in the front). Problem is that I use my commuter for too much to really want to do that (off-road, all-day rides, etc).

Alex's picture

The former

on drum brakes, I would say if it is good enough for the dutch fietsen it is good enough for me. A mechanic once told me that they should last for about 500,000 km. Given the bike I was riding while I was there, I believe him.

.

I don't know enough about drum brakes. The only issue I might have with them is strength. The stopping power that a beautiful, elegant European woman needs in the Dutch flat lands is considerably different what I would want on semi-loaded tour through fire roads in the Cascades.

Drums might be up to the task, but I just don't know. Though I suppose there would be worse thing than having a commuting front wheel and a touring front wheel.

ckdake's picture

if only googling for "shimano

if only googling for "shimano saint drum brake" had more useful results.

.

i had never heard of the saint drum brake and what is this "goggling"?

ckdake's picture

oh jokes on the internet are

oh jokes on the internet are so hard.

http://www.ridesaint.com/ + drum brake = enough drum brake for paul.

IndyFan's picture

How about some Pauls for

How about some Pauls for Paul?

http://www.paulcomp.com/racer.html

.

I understand that they make high quality stuff, but even the simplest stuff they make is ridiculously expensive. Breaks my heart.

also

that looks like a disc brake or am I missing something
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=14856299